Here are a few question that you may have if purchasing a puppy from us. If some of your questions are not answered here, please phone or e-mail me and I will be more than happy to help. Thank You!
Q: What do I need to do to get started?
A: After you choose which pup you are interested in, phone me. I will need to chat with you and discuss details before approving you for the purchase. Next... (1) We will decide the mode of deposit. (2) I will ask for the closest major airport to you and discuss flight options. (3) I will ask for an email address to send the Health Guarantee and Responsible Buyer's Agreement, you will digitally sign and email back to me. Then, every two weeks, I will email updated photos of the pup to you. You will use this time to get ready for the pup and to ask me questions.
Q: What are the terms of the deposit?
A: All deposits are non-refundable (unless there is an illness or death of your chosen puppy, in which case I will refund your deposit). Deposits are payable via PayPal with credit cards accepted. WalMart MoneyGram is an option too, or you may send a personal check overnite.
Q: At what time do I pay the balance due and shipping?
A: The balance due and shipping charges are to be paid when the pup is 6 weeks old. If the balance due and shipping are not paid at 6 weeks, I will re-list the pup as available. Please be in communication with me about payments. I am easy to work with as long as you are staying in contact!
Q: I have never had a pup flown to me. How does that work?
A: I use the only two airlines that provide climate controlled transportation, at all points along the way, year round: United and Delta. United's main hub has kenneling facilities on-site at the Bush Intercontinental Airport in Houston. Vet techs are on hand 24/7 at their 1100 sq ft kenneling facilities. The pups do not travel with the cargo! The planes have pressurized climate controlled holds for the pups, so no matter how hot or cold it is, the pup is kept at a comfortable temperature. When I check-in the pups at the airport, they are held in the office until the very last minute before being carried by hand to a heated/cooled van and driven out on the tarmac to the plane. (No sitting on the hot/cold tarmac on a baggage cart while everything else is loaded/unloaded, as some other airlines do.) When the plane arrives at it's destination, the pups are the first thing carried off by hand and driven again by a heated/cooled van, straight into an indoor office. They are attended by airline employees at all points of the journey, and offered food/water as needed.
Q: How does shipping work on your end?
A: Delta only accepts reservations 2 weeks in advance for live animals. I then make all the flight arrangements and email them to you. I usually ship out of Shreveport LA. It is a 3 hour round-trip drive for me; therefore I have to plan ahead and choose a date of flight that fits well with my schedule. Sometimes I fly pups out of Dallas / Fort Worth, which is a 10 hr round-trip for me. I usually try to fly pups on a Friday so you will have all weekend to devote to your pup.
On flight day, you will arrive at the airport (I will email instructions on exactly where to go) and pick up your baby and call me immediately... I don't get to sleep until I have heard from you! Your paperwork will be in an envelope taped to the top of the crate. A small amount of puppy food will be on top of the crate also. Offer your pup some water as soon as you get out of the airport and into your vehicle. Offer food too, if the pup has already eaten all the food inside it's crate or if you have a long drive before you get home.
Q: At what age can the puppy leave?
A: At 8 weeks of age. If you are unable to pick up your pup at 8 weeks of age, there will be a boarding fee of $5 per day unless prior arrangements are made, plus $20 for each additional vaccination that is needed during that time. Please discuss this before placing a deposit.
Q: What are our transportation options?
A: Depending on my schedule, 1)The pup can be picked up here, 2)We can each drive halfway and meet, 3)You can fly here and meet me at the closest airport, or 4)The pup can be flown via commercial airline to an airport near you. Please arrange these details with me at the time you place a deposit. Please note- if I drive to meet you at a halfway point, there will be a charge of 95 cents a mile one way to cover my expenses. This rate is subject to change, as gas prices fluctuate.
Q: What should I bring with me to pick up my pup?
A: For the trip home, here are some important things to remember. Your pup has not finished it's complete vaccination schedule unless you are getting it at 11 weeks of age. It will not have full immunization protection against diseases it can encounter out in public. Therefore, on the way home DO NOT let your puppy out to pee or exercise in rest areas or high traffic areas. Find an out-of-the-way place to make a pit stop, if you must. A better idea is to bring some newspapers to lay out in the floorboard or in the back of your pickup truck and let the pup do it's business there, then throw the papers away. That way you can be sure that it's not picking up any communicable diseases/parasites from the last dog who used the bathroom on that spot of ground. (I don't want to sound paranoid, but better safe than sorry with a puppy of that age. Also, limit your puppy's social life to your house and yard until the puppy shots are complete at 11 wks of age.) For the trip home, also bring a body halter and leash, some water, and some baby wipes in case any of those things are needed on the way home. (If you are picking the pup up here, please bring a crate or- even better- someone to drive while you hold the pup.) In the summer, don't let the A/C vents blow right on the pup or it may catch a cold. In the winter, you will want to bring a little blanket to keep it warm. I will supply a little bag of puppy kibble in case it gets hungry. You should provide some bottled water.
Q: Why the difference in prices?
A: It usually depends on the size of the parents, the color, gender, hair type and markings of each pup, as well as show and pet quality.
Q: Explain registration papers and pedigrees?
A: My sires and dams are all triple registered with AKC, ACA, and APRI. These registries keep track of the genealogy or bloodlines of it's dogs. If you plan to show your pup/dog in conformation events or sporting events, or if you have permission from me to someday breed your pup/dog, I will order registration papers for an additional fee. It is then up to you to mail off these papers in order for your dog to be considered "registered". If you purchase your pup with a spay/neuter contract, then no registration papers are provided.
A "pedigree" documents the name of each dog in each generation in your pup's family tree. You can request this pedigree from the registry at the time you send in the registration application papers.
Q: Has any testing been done on the sires and dams?
A: Yes! We health test our adults for PLL (Primary Lens Luxation), PRA-PRCD (Progressive Rod-Cone Degeneration), Patella Evaluation, Cardiac Evaluation and Dental. We can proudly say we have droduced FOUR generations of health
"Type A = Clear/Normal" (meaning they themselves are not afflicted OR carry the gene) Chinese Cresteds who have OFA certifications.
Also, we test any dog or puppy for Brucellosis before it comes onto our property. This is a serious disease that canines can carry and it is also transferable to humans. If you're unaware of what exactly this is, please google it.
Q: What is the difference between the health record, health certificate, 48 hr vet check, and health guarantee?
A: Each pup comes with a "health record", stating the date and type of vaccinations and wormers that have been administered to your pup, along with any medicines or medical procedures, if any. You will need to take this with you to your 48 hr vet check so that your vet has this information too. This "48 hr vet check" must be made by your vet in order for your health guarantee to be valid.
Each pup comes with a "health guarantee", legally binding, for your assurance that you are getting a healthy pup. I will email it to you with my digital signature. You will then digitally sign it also and email back to me. I must have your signature before the pup can leave here.
Each pup leaves here with a health certificate. A "health certificate" is filled out by my vet upon examination, verifying that the puppy is healthy and safe to travel. This is also required by any commercial transport company before the pup can board the airplane or cross state lines, but all pups receive a health certificate before leaving here, regardless of whether they are flying or not.
Q: Do you offer microchipping?
A: Yes, microchipping is available for $25. If you would like it done, please request it by the time your pup is 7 weeks old.
Q: Should I choose a male or female?
A: If this puppy will be the second dog added to your household, you must consider which gender will cohabit most congenially with the dog you have now. If you already have one female in the household, she will be the dominant and the male will defer to her in most cases, thus eliminating most chances of a power struggle. On the other hand, if you already have one female and you are getting a second, there is a chance that the two females at some point will have a clash of personalities if they both want to be the alpha female. This can lead to actual fights. I would recommend a male/female pairing, or even a male/male pairing (IF they are both neutered and there are NO cycling females to fight over) before a female/female pairing. As far as personalities go, I have found that the males stay affectionate, playful, and happy-go-lucky as the years go by, while the females become more dignified as they age. These are all some things to consider when choosing which gender will work best in your household.
There are some misconceptions about the difficulty of housebreaking males from hiking and marking, thus the males are sometimes overlooked when a pup is chosen. If a male is neutered at 4 months of age, he has not reached sexual maturity and doesn't have the urge to mark his territory- so if you are interested in a male but unsure about whether it's do-able, just ask me for more details.
Q: Are there any videos you recommend in preparation for my new companion?
A: Yes, I cannot stress enough how important it is to become acquainted with dog psychology. It will make a world of difference in how easily your dog is trained. The key is in understanding how a dog thinks, and using that knowledge to elicit the kind of behavior you want from your companion. I recommend Cesar Milan's books/videos/products. They can be found online.
Q: What personality traits should I be informed about?
A: Chinese Cresteds are an extremely playful and affectionate breed. They also enjoy lots of attention. If you're looking for a lapdog to carry with you everywhere you go, this is the breed! They thrive on human interaction.
Q: What are the grooming requirements for this breed?
A: Grooming for the Hairless is very minimal since they do not have hair; however, since their skin is exposed it does tend to dry out quicker, so please apply lotion (preferably raw unrefined shea butter) to the skin once a day. With PowerPuffs, they needed to be brushed often because of their long hair. Many people give the PowderPuffs a "summer cut" for comfort and ease of grooming in warmer climates.
Q: What about vaccinations and wormings?
A: The vaccination schedule for my pups is as follows: At 4 weeks, a Neopar shot. This is a high titer parvo-only shot. It vaccinates against ALL known strains of parvo, and is the best parvo shot on the market today. It is made by NeoTech Laboratories. At 6 weeks, a Galaxy 5-way shot which covers Distemper, Adenovirus Type 2, Parainfluenza, and Parvovirus. It is made by Schering-Plough. At 8 weeks, another Neopar shot. The last 5-way puppy shot is due at 11 weeks, and I will have that date written down on the pup's health record so that you can schedule it with your vet. This will be the last shot needed until the booster shot a year later and the rabies shot at 6 mos. Regarding any other shots- Tell your vet NOT to give a 7-way shot or lepto on a pup less than 6 months old. Lepto is not a danger in most areas and this shot can actually be harmful to pups, causing kidney damage and anaphylactic shock. A Corona shot is also not needed or recommended, as per the Texas A&M Veterinary School, among others. Different vets have different opinions on the corona and lepto shots, but you DO have a choice and can specify which shots to give your dog. Also, some vets will automatically give extra 5-way shots because "those breeders just SAY they gave some shots but didn't, so I will give an extra one just to make sure". Well, THIS breeder provides a record of exactly which shots were given and on which date. These records are accurate and complete! Please do not over-vaccinate, as it can be very harmful. Do some research on the subject and you will agree with me on the importance of correct vaccinations schedules. As for worming, the pups are wormed with both pyrantel pamoate and fenbendazole. Ask your vet about maintenance worming.
Q: What should I feed my puppy?
A: Become an expert at reading labels. Always look at the first three listed ingredients... does it mention corn first? Or in the second and third ingredients combined? Does it have a high grain content? Dogs need more animal protein than grains.
Also read the protein and fat percentage to get a good idea what your pup is eating. Never feed canned dog food... it usually has only about 8% protein and is mostly just moisture. For a healthy dog, good high quality feed is absolutely essential!
Another good reason to feed a high quality feed: less poop scooping. They will be able to digest and utilize more of the food thus eating LESS, therefore less will be coming out the other end. The stools will be firmer and fewer. The extra money that you may spend on high quality food will be saved in lower volume food bought, and lower vet bills down the road.
I rotate feeds in order to give my dogs a variety. And remember, that just because a dog eats a certain brand with gusto does not mean that it's the best nutrition! Some are loaded with salt and artificial flavors but are lacking in nutrition. And just because a dog eats a smaller amount of a certain brand, doesn't mean that the dog doesn't like the food- it might mean that the food isn't full of 'fillers' and is therefore satisfying the dog for a longer period of time, before feeling hungry for the next meal.
When you switch feeds, always mix the old and new brand half/half for the first week to give the dog/puppy's tummy time to make the adjustment, or diarrhea will occur.
Also, the first month in the puppy's new home, he should be fed a teaspoon of plain UNSWEETENED yogurt each day. It provides beneficial bacteria to the digestive tract, which helps prevent stress induced coccidia. (Actually, I prefer that you give this to the pup longer than the first month... mine are on it for life.) Bottled water should be given the pup for the first week also while it adjusts to the new environment.
Q: How much should I feed my puppy?
A: You should begin feeding your pup on a strict schedule twice a day. (I leave food out for mine at all times, but when housetraining a puppy it is better to feed it on a regular schedule.) You should provide water at all times.
Q: What about your retired breeding dogs?
A: After my dogs are retired, I spay/neuter them and find for them a forever home, so you may also feel free to look from time to time to see if any adults are available. And just like my puppies, my retired adults stay with me until we find just the right home for him/her.
Q: What is the average life span of a Chinese Crested?
A: Anywhere from 14-16 years.
Q: Do the puppies have any type of socialization prior to being sent to their new home?
A: Oh, do they! I am a stay-at-home housewife with a 5 yr. old stepdaughter who loves playing with these guys! So between her and I, they get plenty of one on one human interaction.
Q: Do the puppies have any type of training prior to being sent?
A: Since the puppies usually only stay until they are 8 weeks of age, I do not practice any training with them. I leave that up to the new family to choose the training methods you prefer.
Q: Has my puppy had it's dewclaws removed?
A: Yes, at only a few days old we have the dewclaws taken off for refinement.
Q: Do you have references?
A: Yes, references are available upon request and also my vets contact information.
Q: If for any reason I am unable to keep my puppy, what is your policy?
A: If for any reason you are unable to care for your puppy, I do ask that you send the puppy back to me at your expense so that I can place the puppy in another loving home. I do not want any of my pups to end up in a rescue or shelter.